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1994-06-04
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 93 04:30:51 PST
From: Ham-Homebrew Mailing List and Newsgroup <ham-homebrew@ucsd.edu>
Errors-To: Ham-Homebrew-Errors@UCSD.Edu
Reply-To: Ham-Homebrew@UCSD.Edu
Precedence: Bulk
Subject: Ham-Homebrew Digest V93 #128
To: Ham-Homebrew
Ham-Homebrew Digest Fri, 10 Dec 93 Volume 93 : Issue 128
Today's Topics:
Built in transmatch
Kenwood HT Batteries - homebrew charger
replacement transistors
Send Replies or notes for publication to: <Ham-Homebrew@UCSD.Edu>
Send subscription requests to: <Ham-Homebrew-REQUEST@UCSD.Edu>
Problems you can't solve otherwise to brian@ucsd.edu.
Archives of past issues of the Ham-Homebrew Digest are available
(by FTP only) from UCSD.Edu in directory "mailarchives/ham-homebrew".
We trust that readers are intelligent enough to realize that all text
herein consists of personal comments and does not represent the official
policies or positions of any party. Your mileage may vary. So there.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 9 Dec 93 00:07:38 GMT
From: psinntp!arrl.org@uunet.uu.net
Subject: Built in transmatch
To: ham-homebrew@ucsd.edu
Has anyone figured how to design an RF output stage
with a built in transmatch that can't be mistuned
as a frequency multiplier?
This seems to be a big drawback of most tube output
networks--while they work fine as limited range
transmatches how can you tell you have it tuned
up in the proper band? It isn't always practical to
have an appropriately located station listen to
see which tuning settings are the right ones!
Obviously, putting in a low pass filter between the
matching network and the transmatch is one solution,
but modern transceivers *already* do that.
Anyone with a cheap and simple solution?
Zack Lau KH6CP/1
Internet: zlau@arrl.org "Working" on 24 GHz SSB/CW gear
Operating Interests: 10 GHz CW/SSB/FM
US Mail: c/o ARRL Lab 80/40/20 CW
225 Main Street Station capability: QRP, 1.8 MHz to 10 GHz
Newington CT 06111 modes: CW/SSB/FM/packet
amtor/baudot
Phone (if you really have to): 203-666-1541
------------------------------
Date: 9 Dec 93 21:42:30 GMT
From: ogicse!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!biocca@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: Kenwood HT Batteries - homebrew charger
To: ham-homebrew@ucsd.edu
In article <755368487snx@skyld.tele.com> jangus@skyld.tele.com (Jeffrey D. Angus) writes:
>
>In article <35923@dog.ee.lbl.gov> biocca@csg.lbl.gov writes:
>
> > I'm considering building a charger for the TH-78a batteries. There
>
> Well, unless you *like* to experiment, why not just buy a kenwood
> charger.
If I wasn't interesting in experimenting, I don't think I would have
posted here in rec.radio.amateur.homebrew. :-)
I considered buying a Kenwood charger, though I am more impressed at this
point in the W&W model (that works with any brand batteries).
Even if I do buy one of these, I still would like a fast charger in each
vehicle (we have two hams in the family). At $90 each that makes homebrew
more attractive. Will the Kenwood charger even run from 12VDC?
> These battery packs cost from $50 to $100 and the radios a lot more.
> Is the savings in homerolling worth the risk of ruining either a
> battery pack or the radio?
How much does it cost to build one? - If I use 12VDC input (the batteries
I'm charging are 7.2V, not the 12V ones) the cost of the charger is
one chip plus about three bucks in misc parts. I don't have a price on the
chip, but perhaps it is another five. The hardest part is fabricating
a convenient connection to the battery.
Risk - there is some risk to the batteries of course, but none to the
radio - it has polarity protection and can handle the full 12 volts.
I plan to set it up to charge the battery outside the radio anyway, so
there is no risk of leakage contaminating the rig. That also gives me the
option of charging through the top of the battery avoiding the circuitry
that appears to be inside the battery. This also allows me to tape over
the contacts on the bottom of the battery and avoid problems with external
shorts there.
This chip is designed to do this exact job, and has extensive data
sheets, so I suspect the risk is minimal. I'd do all testing on AA
nicads, risking about $5 of batteries total. The chip I'm looking at
is the MAX713 negative delta V nicad battery charger chip. It monitors
voltage, temperature, current, and time if you want to use all the features.
Temperature requires internal thermistors in the pack, but is not
necessary except for charge rates greater than 2C.
> Amateur: WA6FWI@WA6FWI.#SOCA.CA.USA.NA | "It is difficult to imagine our
>Internet: jangus@skyld.tele.com | universe run by a single omni-
Alan K Biocca
WB6ZQZ
------------------------------
Date: 9 Dec 93 16:06:45 GMT
From: ogicse!cs.uoregon.edu!sgiblab!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!cactus.org!majec@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: replacement transistors
To: ham-homebrew@ucsd.edu
A question. I am about to build a 4 to 6 watt amp,
the design of which comes from page 61 of the Solid State Design book
by the ARRL. They call for a GE D446C transistor, and suggest a 2n5321
as a replacement worth experimenting with. Well being very new to this
hobby I am not sure if the design of the amp is highly dependent on
the characteristics of those particular devices or can I substitute
another device. If any of you are familiar with the amp design please make
some suggestions for replacement transistors for me.
Thanks
Ed Guinn
kb5ruf
majec@cactus.org
------------------------------
End of Ham-Homebrew Digest V93 #128
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